I am back from Russia! What an amazing, educational
experience it was. I feel like I learned more in ten days than I have in the
past ten years. I’ll have much to write about in the weeks ahead, but here are
some of my lighter impressions.
Random Things Learned in Russia
- Someone told us that a coat is to a Russian what a car is to an American. You spend all your time in it and it says a lot about you. Younger women wear sleek, belted non-fur coats. At around 35, they switch to full-length furs. And yes, that’s real fur. Clearly no PETA presence here. The men in the family will save up to buy the coat for their sister/daughter when she is “of age,” and she’ll have it the rest of her life. She’ll likely have a big, puffy hat to match. And you know how here it’s hard to get out of the parking lot after a big public event? You don’t have that problem in Russia where everyone takes public transportation; instead, the logjam forms at the coat check.
- They need the good coat, because it is every bit as cold as we imagine it to be. My brother-in-law, who I met up with in Moscow, used to live in Minnesota, and I asked him how the two compare. The difference in Russia, he said, is that you’re always out in it because you walk everywhere. After shopping for 90 minutes at the outdoor market and eating shish kabobs outside, I was as cold as I’ve ever been. As much as I didn’t enjoy it, I’m glad I got to experience the cold, which is so much a part of Russian culture.
- “Tea” is not tea in Russia. It is a smorgasboard of desserts. At “tea,” skinny Russian women down four fried cottage-cheese pancakes, drenched in sour cream, without a thought. Salad is not salad in Russia. There is no lettuce involved. You’ll be lucky to find a few sprigs of parsley on a salad bar, hiding out among the many mayonnaise concoctions, usually made with a host of unidentifiable ingredients. Sometimes they’ll sneak in squid.
- When Russians learn that you have four kids, they gasp in horror. Even though they get paid to have children—an effort to increase the population since Stalin took out tens of millions of his own people a few generations ago—two is the most you see. And they’re usually spaced further apart than our American children. This makes sense when you see their tiny flats. Whole families sleep in the same room, which would provide about all the birth control I would need.
- The words “Soviet times” come up frequently in daily conversation. It’s their frame of reference. Although their transition out of communism was brutally hard, leaving them without wages, food, electricity, or any semblance of stability for several years, they seem thankful that “Soviet times” are a thing of the past. When I expressed surprised that Lenin was still hanging out entombed in Red Square, my young Russian friends said, “Yeah, we don’t know why he’s still here, either.”
- If you’re born in Russia, it’s likely that you’ll live your whole life in one place. Each citizen has an internal passport that records the region of their birth, and they can’t just decide one day they want to live in Moscow, pack up, and leave. It’s not that it’s impossible, but a lot of work would go into securing legal housing and pay in another region. This means that I would have been stuck in Oakley, Kansas, for the rest of my life. Hard to get a good college education there, and not much work available outside the local truck stop. I will stop taking for granted our freedom of travel and movement in the United States.
- “You never know” is the standard rule of thumb when traveling in Russia. You never know if you’re going to walk into a cafĂ© bathroom and find a toilet with a seat, a toilet without a seat, or a mere hole in the ground. You never know when you bite into that rolled-up pancake they call blini if you’re going to get yummy cream-cheese-and-raisin filling or cow’s tongue. You never know in a restaurant if all the guests at your table will get their food at the same time, or if one dish will come an hour and a half later than the others. And you never know when you buy a ticket to a Russian circus if you’re going to get Olympic-caliber gymnasts doing outrageous acrobatic stunts or “trained” parrots sliding down a slide. (In our case it was both.) What you do know, however, is that there will always be heavy traffic in Moscow and you’ll have to fight for a table at every McDonalds, regardless of what time of day it is.
- Everyone’s an artist in Russia. Everyone knows art history in Russia. Everyone knows about great Russian literature and great Russian music. And when they get to know Americans, who can’t name a single American poet or artist, they wonder how in the world we got to be as successful as we are. (I figured out the answer to this pretty quickly. We’re a young country, and we got to learn from everyone else’s mistakes. That and capitalism have worked out well for us.)
- There’s no sensory sensation in the world like having dinner in an Azerbaijani restaurant with sweaty Georgian dancers popping in and out, waiters offering hookah, strange foods coming and going at strange times, words flying across the table in Russian and English with translators frantically trying to keep up, and 80’s Madonna music playing in the background.
- While it’s acceptable to talk about cat castrations at a Russian dinner table, it’s not OK to ask people about their hopes and dreams. You just never know.
Stay tuned for more serious reflections on my time in
Russia in the days ahead.