Thursday, February 6, 2014

The Russia Beyond Sochi


The news reports are starting to pour in from Sochi, and Russia’s looking more laughable than respectable. Sure the mountains are pretty, but people are scratching their heads over the palm trees that also line the streets of this home to the winter Olympics. Western journalists are also aghast at the, um, unpredictable conditions they've found in their hotels and restaurants.

While the rest of Europe was progressing and thriving in the 20th century, Russia was under the influence of anything-but-progressive Communists. Americans think of Russia and picture Hunt for the Red October’s floating missile arsenal or weapons of mass destruction that could take out whole U.S. cities. But while impressing the world with its military might, Russia was letting its citizens make do with whatever was left over, which wasn’t much. For example, you still see a few Russian cars on Moscow roads, but most of them broke down so often and so quickly that they were hardly worth driving.

Russia is old. Its infrastructure is old. So are its roads, its buildings, its heating systems. Many of the students we met at tech schools are being trained in “refurbishing.” It makes sense that you would need this skill in a country with old walls, old floors, old heat, and old chairs.

Russia wants to put its best foot forward in Sochi. I find myself rooting for that, too. Not because I want Russian politicians to shine in the international spotlight, but because of the real Russians I now know. Before my trip, my 12-year-old daughter asked me why people live in Russia. I wasn’t able to tell her, but I told her I’d find out. I came home with a very simple answer: They live there because they were born there, and they are proud to call Russia their home.

When the world laughs at crazy Russian toilets or poorly translated signs (and for some reason, all their signs are poorly translated into English), I picture the proud Russian women I saw walking the streets in their fur coats and hats. Their faces were tired and old beyond their years, but they still get up every morning, bundle up, and walk two miles on icy streets to do their shopping. I picture the proud older orphans who survived conditions none of us can imagine and are smiling and happy today. I picture the hardships generations upon generations of Russian people have endured, and I marvel at their strength and stamina.

I hope you’ll think of them as you watch the games in Sochi. They are the real Russia.